Fireblade standard suspension settings.
For those
of you who have messed with the suspension and are now unhappy with the
performance of the bike or have bought a bike and the handling doesn’t match
you expectations I have listed the base settings that the bike should have when
it comes out of the factory . Be aware that a number of other factors could be
messing the handling up. These include tyre pressure, tyre profiles, wheel
bearings, suspension linkages, chain tension, steering head bearings and the
suspension units themselves. Over time the shock absorbers do lose their
damping capabilities mainly through the thinning of the oil contained within
them. If it has not been done recently (most likely not at all) then it would
be a good idea to get the oil in the front forks changed and to consider a new
shock for the back as the original is not rebuildable economically. An Ohlins
unit will cost about £400 quid if you haggle and will make the bike look more
trick as well. Front forks can be rebuilt, resprung and revalved for about £200
- £300. It’s something I keep meaning to have done but can always think of
other things to spend £700 on J
Front forks.
Be sure
to adjust both fork legs the same otherwise you might find the bike has a
tendency to weave and favour left handers over right or vice versa
The
pre-load is adjusted by turning the adjuster which is located in the centre of
the fork leg at the top. A 14mm spanner fits the flats that Honda have
thoughtfully provided as means of adjustment. The standard settings for all
models are so that you can see three lines of the adjuster above the hexagon.
Rebound damping.
The
rebound damping adjuster is located at the top of the forks in the shape of a
small brass screw. To adjust first turn the screw fully clockwise. Then turn
the screw counter clockwise for the desired amount of clicks or turns. Later
models don’t have the clicks when you turn the screw so you have to count turns
instead.
N – S
Models 7 clicks from maximum
T – X
Models one turn from maximum
Compression damping.
N and P
model Fireblades do not have this adjustment. I have no idea why but it was
probably something to do with money. The adjuster is located at the bottom of
the fork leg just above and behind the
wheel spindle. As for the rebound damping the setting is measured from the
maximum by turning the screw fully clockwise and then turning anti-clockwise
and counting either the clicks or the turns
R – S
Models 6
clicks from maximum
T – X
Models one turn
Preload.
The
preload is adjusted using the C spanner contained within the standard tool kit.
If you look at the rear shock you will see a stepped collar that surrounds the
shock and has numbers imprinted. The standard settings for preload are position
2 for the models up to V and position 3 for the W and X models. The higher the
number the harder the spring will feel. Big heavy bloaters will require more
preload.
The
rebound adjuster is found at the bottom of the shock on the left hand side.
Even with a hugger this area will probably be covered in shit so its not a bad idea
to get a sponge and wash it down so you can see what you are doing. The
recommended setting for all models is one turn counter clockwise from maximum.
The
compression damping is thoughtfully placed on the remote reservoir located on
the left side of the bike.
N – S
models one and a half turns from max
T – X
models one turn from max
Words of wisdom.
When
adjusting the suspension to try and correct faults or just to see if the bike
will handle better remember to make one adjustment at a time and the go for a
test ride. Adjusting many things at once will make it much harder to judge what
is actually going on so a bit of patience and carrying a small screwdriver so
you don’t have to keep coming home to do the adjustments will let you reap the
rewards. To be truly scientific about it aswell you should ride the same piece
of road befor eand after each adjustment to see if there is and improvement
otherwise the road itself may become a bigger factor in the handling than the
adjustments.